ASEAN heads of state will wear a shirt made of a special woven fabric from West Manggarai with the motif of mata manuk (chicken eye) at the 42nd ASEAN Summit that will be held in Labuan Bajo, East Nusa Tenggara, on May 9 – 11, 2023.
The term wastra is used for traditional Indonesian fabrics. Indonesia has four wastra that have gained worldwide recognition, namely batik (fabric made using wax-resistant dyeing technique), songket (woven fabric made using supplementary weft technique), ikat (woven fabric made by tying and dyeing threads before woven), and tenun (woven fabric made using a traditional handloom).
Batik is a special Indonesian fabric made using canting (pen-like wax applicator) and is known for its unique decorative motifs in each region. Indonesian batik was officially recognized by UNESCO on Oct. 2, 2009, as an Intangible Cultural Heritage at a UNESCO session in Abu Dhabi. Industry Ministry’s Data and Information Center recorded that Indonesia’s batik exports reached US$157.8 million in 2021.
Then, there is songket fabric with its unique and beautiful motif which utilizes a combination of gold threads. Songket from South Sumatra was featured in the prestigious DC Fashion Week show in 2014 presented by Indonesian Muslim fashion designer, Dian Pelangi. In 2013, Palembang’s (South Sumatra capital) songket was also officially recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by the Education, Culture, Research, and Technology Ministry.
Another traditional fabric that found its way to the global fashion world is Bali’s Tenun Endek (endek means unchanged as the thread is tied and dipped in dye). The motif of this Balinese fabric is usually dominated by bright colors such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and purple. This woven fabric created a buzz among fashion global fashion enthusiasts because it was included in Dior’s Spring and Summer 2021 collection during the 2020 Paris Fashion Week.
Endek fabric gained more popularity on the world stage after it was worn by world leaders such as Chinese President Xi Jinping, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau, and British Prime Minister Rishi Sunak during the G20 Gala Dinner at Garuda Wisnu Kencana, Bali, in November 2022.
Lastly, there is Tenun Ikat of Flores, East Nusa Tenggara. It has different characteristics in each region. For example, the one from the Sikka region has distinctive motifs featuring fishermen, boats, shrimps, or crabs.
The fabric gained international recognition through a show in the 2018 Paris Fashion Week at Le Grand Intercontinental Hotel, in Paris, France. Indonesian designer, Julie Laiskodat, showcased the beauty of the Flores fabric to the world.
ASEAN Leaders to Wear Tenun Ikat of Flores
Julie Laiskodat will also utilize the momentum of the 42nd ASEAN Summit in Labuan Bajo, West Manggarai, East Nusa Tenggara, on May 9 – 11 to promote the unique Tenun Ikat of Flores.
Julie, who serves as the Chairwoman of the Regional National Handicrafts Council (Dekranasda) of East Nusa Tenggara Province, has prepared shirts made from West Manggarai woven fabric for ASEAN heads of state and the Secretary-General of ASEAN during the 2023 ASEAN Summit.
“I have prepared them and sent them to the Presidential Palace. They are from MSMEs in Lembor Subdistrict, and President Joko Widodo himself will choose which head of state will wear which color. He will personally make the selection,” said Julie Laiskodat in Labuan Bajo on Thursday (Apr. 27).
NTT Province’s Dekranasda has prepared 12 sets of tenun fabric to be made into shirts and worn by the 11 ASEAN heads of state and the Secretary-General of ASEAN. The fabric features the mata manuk (chicken eye) motif of West Manggarai. The color and design of the fabric were personally chosen by President Joko Widodo.
The council also prepared shawls that will be worn by the spouses of heads of state in the spouse program. The shawls’ design and color were selected by the First Lady, Iriana Joko Widodo.
According to Julie, who is also the wife of East Nusa Tenggara Governor, the fabric that will be used is made from soft and breathable materials in accordance with the instructions from President Joko Widodo and First Lady Iriana.
This also serves as a promotion for the fabric’s intellectual property, which has historical and cultural values that deserve appreciation from all parties.
Therefore, the people of West Manggarai can be proud when ASEAN heads of state wear shirts with the mata manuk motif.
Origin of Flores’ Tenun Ikat
The tenun ikat of Flores is also known as songke. This songke is a traditional tenun fabric of the Manggarai people who live on the western side of Flores Island. This fabric is mandatory to be worn during traditional events such as attending a feast (penti), opening a new farm field (randang), and meetings (nempung).
The fabric history dates back to 1613 – 1640 when the Gowa Makassar kingdom in South Sulawesi once ruled almost the entire Manggarai area. This led to the acculturation of Makassar and Manggarai cultures, which led to the birth of new traditions, including dressing styles. Some elements of the Makassar’s dressing style were incorporated into Manggarai’s style.
The Makassarese call the fabric songket, while the Manggarai people know it as songke.
Men from Manggarai usually wear tengge (songke tied on the waist) and combine it with destar (Manggarai headwear). Meanwhile, the women wear it the same way with a kebaya (Indonesian traditional blouse) top.
Songke is also worn by fighters in the caci (warrior) dance, used as belis (dowry), and used to wrap corpses. The fabric is generally black in color.
For the Manggarai people, black symbolizes greatness, majesty, and resignation that all humans will someday return to Mori Kraeng (the Creator). Meanwhile, the embroidery threads are generally in striking colors such as red, white, orange, and yellow.
The motifs used are not arbitrary. Each motif contains meanings and hopes of the Manggarai people in terms of welfare, health, and relationships. It relates to human-to-human, human-to-nature, and human-to-the Creator relationships.
These motifs are, among others, mata manuk, su’i (line of life), wela ngkaweng (healing flower), ntala (star), wela runu (small flower), and ranggong (spider).
Mata Manuk Motif
According to Kompas.com, the mata manuk motif was first created by Maria Elisabeth C. Pranda when she served as the Chairwoman of West Manggarai Regency’s Dekranasda from 2005 to 2010. She was also the wife of the first regent of West Manggarai, the late Wilfridus Fidelis Pranda.
Maria said that the trapezoidal manuk motif has a high cultural and religious value for the people of West Manggarai. Manuk (chicken) is often used as a means of worship to the Creator and ancestors during traditional rites.
“Chicken is also a means of peace and brotherhood, a symbol of masculinity and courage, and a ward against disaster,” she said.
The Manggarai songke with the mata manuk motif has been registered with Law and Human Rights Ministry since September 2020.
Photo caption: Examples of woven fabric to be worn by ASEAN heads of state at the 42nd ASEAN Summit in Labuan Bajo, West Manggarai, East Nusa Tenggara. (KEMENKOMINFO)
Source: Portal Indonesia (indonesia.go.id)